How to save the world

Small changes, big differences: a guide for travellers

Aug 20, 2023

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Dear NE-One

Hello from a grey but wonderfully warm beach in Thailand. After four glorious days away from our computers Mark and I are now back at work – and saving the world.

You see, during our four days off we stayed in a beachfront bungalow that in pictures looks absolutely idyllic – that’s it, in the photo above… hammock on the veranda, golden beach edging out from under it, palm trees providing a bit of shade – but in reality, well…

In reality there is a stream just out front, and this stream is so heavily polluted that the air smells almost constantly of violent chemicals and rotting eggs. At high tide, when the water’s flowing faster, you don’t notice it too much but at low tide – which these past few days has been while the sun is at its scorching zenith – the water stands still and a putrid odour clings heavily to humid air.

On our first afternoon there I moped in the hammock (“maybe I’ll get used to the smell and won’t notice it anymore”), bitterly disappointed with our choice of accommodation. How could no-one have mentioned this in their Airbnb review? Yes, the staff here are lovely – but I booked this bungalow because I wanted to roll out of the hammock and into the sea… and there’s no way I’m swimming near this. How could the people who live here let this water get into such a state? Is anyone embarrassed about this river? Horrified, perhaps? Is anyone taking any action? Who’s actually responsible for this?

Well the truth is, I am. We are. As travellers to a place where people rely heavily on tourism for their livelihoods, we travellers are – directly and indirectly – a very integral part of the environment. Where we stay; how we get there; how we spend our money; what we eat; how we get around; who we choose to support; how often we do our laundry; how long we shower for; hell, even how often we flush the toilet – every decision we make and action we take binds us tighter into this environment.

Those of us who can afford to travel can no longer afford to do so mindlessly. That doesn’t mean we all have to spend a fortune staying in carbon-neutral or off-grid hotels (although, that would be a great help…). To steal a line from a magazine I used to work on: small changes, big differences. Here’s how Mark and I are trying to lighten our footprint while we travel:

1/ We don’t buy bottled water

Instead, we use a Lifestraw bottle, which has a built-in water filter. Mark didn’t buy a single bottle of water when he travelled five weeks through Ecuador recently and we’ve both been using his Lifestraw since we arrived in Thailand 10 days ago. We’ve drunk water from the taps in Bangkok, Ko Samui and now Ko Phangan – in fact, I’m sipping from it right now. So far, all good. The place we’re currently staying in has a small kitchen and so Mark’s been transferring boiled water into a jug, which stays in the fridge – so we have cold water, when we want it.

2/ We’re travelling slower

When we’re on assignment we usually spend two nights somewhere then move on (often within the same town), but at the moment we’re working on writing projects and not researching, so we can stay in one place for longer. This pours more money into the local economy, cuts down on the amount of laundry that our hosts do (this piece in The Guardian looks at the carbon footprint of laundry) and also means we’re trimming back on transport between destinations, and from guesthouse to guesthouse once we’re there.

3/ We try to support small, locally owned businesses and restaurants

Travelling sustainably isn’t just about producing less plastic and being kind to Ma Nature: it’s about being considerate of local communities and contributing positively to the local economy, too. I get a real kick out of supporting small family-run businesses – but it’s more than a do-good-feel-good thing. Supporting small businesses (eateries, fruit sellers, barbers, hole-in-the-wall cafes) is usually a wonderful way to connect with people, and to truly experience a place.

4/ We’re conscious of what we eat and drink

Most of the time I eat vegetarian meals (for the carbon footprint of various foods, look here) and I order fresh coconuts rather than bottled drinks. That’s an all-round win: good for the local economy, no plastic waste, and coconut water is a healthy choice, too. Also, Mark wants me to mention, he drinks local beer…

5/ We try to avoid single-use plastics

Thailand is big on plastic, and we’re literally saying no when it’s given to us. No straw, thank you. I don’t need a plastic shopping bag – I’ve brought my own. Here’s my mug – can you pour the coffee straight into this please. We always travel with a big bag of instant coffee – so in theory we don’t need to use the single-serving sachets in hotel rooms. In reality, however, I really like those awful 3-in-1 sachets you get in Thailand. I’m cutting back.

6/ We’ve become more aware of our water usage

Last week, while we were staying on Ko Samui, I was horrified to read this piece by journalist

Kate Walker

– I’d had no idea the island has a water-shortage problem. I’m now making an effort to cut back on how long I run the water when I shower and – perhaps this is TMI but I’ll tell you anyway because there can be no shame when one is saving the world – Mark and I have agreed that it’s not always necessary to flush the loo Every Single Time.

7/ We don’t use the soap provided

Mark and I have always travelled with our own shampoo and soap – there is no need to use the tiny plastic-wrapped (and in cheaper places, often quite icky) toiletries that hotels provide.

8/ We walk more

I guess this is a by-product of travelling slower. We’re not madly rushing around trying to make meetings and see all the things, so we’re moving around less and when we do, we tend to go places within walking distance. That ties in with supporting the hyper-local economy and also – during our Four Days Off we dreamed up an adventure that we’ll be embarking on early next year. It involves a lot of walking so for now, every step counts as training.

9/ We off-set our flights and Grab rides

When we need to catch a cab somewhere we usually use Grab – and have opted in for carbon off-setting with all our rides. When we book flights we check that box too, if it’s available.

My hammock view – with offending river in the foreground – at low tide.

What could Mark and I do better? Choose to stay only in eco-friendly / travel-sustainable hotels is an obvious one – but, as Stuart McDonald wrote in this thought-provoking piece, it’s also a bit of a minefield. We should buy reef-friendly sunscreen, yes. I should not buy the cheap clothing that’s sold in markets around Thailand (in my defence, though, the majority of my wardrobe is either many years old, or was “preloved”). We should buy only chemical-free soap and shampoo (btw, I do use a menstrual cup, if you must know). Be mindful of how much the aircon is used. What else could we do, or not do? Please do let me know – I’m open to suggestions.

By the way, awful pong aside we ended up really enjoying our stay in that bungalow on the beach in Ko Samui. I reviewed our Airbnb stay and agreed with everyone else that the location is good and that the staff are lovely… and, yes, I mentioned the river. I’m all for honesty in reviews.

Until next weekend
Narina x

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