Bali: the absolute basics

Because every journey has to start somewhere

Feb 03, 2023

Dear NE-One

I’m planning a trip to Bali and wondered if you have any suggestions… these words land in my inbox frequently. They’re often followed by some sort of apology – I hope you don’t mind; if you have time; my yoga teacher’s sister said you’d be the best person to ask – but the thing is, no apology is ever necessary. Through the decade that this island has been our home base, Mark and I have met exceptional people who have patiently and generously shared their culture and spaces with us – and being able to encourage sustainable travel experiences is, to my mind anyway, a gesture of gratitude to this Island of the Gods.

There really is magic here in Bali, if you know where to look – and so this newsletter is the first in a Bali-focussed mini-series (which will be interspersed with other travel stories, like this one) that will delve into some very special places to go, things to know. I’ve written about Bali’s culture, people and places for titles including National Geographic, Conde Nast Traveller, Lonely Planet and The Telegraph – and Mark and I also wrote Secret Bali, a guide to some of the island’s most intriguing and least-known places. What I’m wanting to do with this series is expand on what I’ve written before. Go a bit deeper; get a bit more practical; be a bit more personal. If a trip to Bali is on your radar, put the kettle on and your feet up: your journey begins here.

On Sunday I’ll send out a piece that delves into some of the unforgettable places to go if you’re wanting to escape the world or explore “real Bali” (or do all the things)… but you’ll need to get to those places, of course, and so first up, the absolute basics: practical details on how to get around (plus a few of my trusted contacts and resources). Because let’s face it – it would be a pity to spend your island holiday grappling with logistics.

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How to get to Bali

Most major airlines fly to Bali. I Gusti Ngurah Rai is the official name of Bali’s international airport (code: DPS), which is in Denpasar in the south of the island. If you fly into one of the South East Asia hubs like Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Bangkok or Jakarta, then take a look at Skyscanner for flights into Bali with regional airlines. Popular low-cost airline AirAsia is not listed on Skyscanner, so check their website too. If budget is a factor when you travel then take a read through this piece, where I shared tips on how to find cheap flights.

To link through to other pieces that include suggestions on places to go, things to do in Bali, please see the end of this post.

Get through the airport

You’ll probably need a visa to enter Indonesia. Apply for an eVisa up to 14 days before you land, or else get a one when you arrive – for the latest updates and requirements, and to check if you actually need a visa, see this official website. The visa costs Rp500,000.

[UPDATE – Feb 2024] As of 14 February 2024 all visitors must pay a tourism levy of Rp150,000. You can pay this before you arrive – please find all the details here.

Transport to your hotel

As you exit the airport building you’ll be met by throngs of drivers vying for your attention – which can be overwhelming particularly if, after a long flight, you now have to find transport to your hotel. Your introduction to the island will be so much more relaxed if you’ve arranged a ride ahead of time. We always ask our friend Made to pick us up (in fact as I write, he’s driving Mark’s folks from the airport) – he’s a brilliant, reliable driver and you can reach him via WhatsApp on +62-859-3538-5758. If Made’s not available to drive you, he’ll connect you with someone who is. If you plan on using Grab (details below) while you’re in Bali, head to the Grab “lounge” at the airport (here’s the location) and catch your ride from there.

Get around the easy way

Gojek and Grab, the region’s very affordable equivalent of Uber, have made getting around (the busier parts of) the island an absolute breeze. Gojek tends to be slightly cheaper, and both apps offer rides by car and by scooter (the drivers have to carry a helmet for passengers). You’ll need to create an account and verify it via SMS, so download the apps and set them up before you leave home. I use both – if GoJek drivers are busy or too far away, I’ll check Grab.

Get around on your own

You’ll find Instagram littered with posts of carefree “influencers” scooting along Bali’s roads – often while wearing only a bikini or boardshorts, and sans helmet. If you hire a scooter (which you can do very easily, almost everywhere, for around $5 a day) please wear a helmet (and some clothes) and make sure you have travel insurance. I regularly see crowd-funding appeals for foreigners who’ve had an accident and don’t have the means or insurance to cover the – often life-saving – treatment they need.

If you’re going to be hiring a scooter, I recommend you take a lesson with Canggu Scooter Lessons – they’re brilliant, and run through everything from how to switch a scooter on to traffic laws to taking you out driving on the roads.

For details on using a bus, taxi, car and motorbike take a look at this piece that Mark wrote for Lonely Planet on how to get around Bali – it’s packed with plenty of useful info.

Unless you’re confident driving around cities like Delhi or São Paulo, think twice about hiring a car in Bali. There are swarms of scooters at bottle-neck intersections, networks of one-way roads (usually with scooters going in the wrong direction), as well as potholes, heavy trucks and hairpin bends… so I always suggest travellers use a private driver to transport them between areas. Also, I’m a big advocate for supporting really small businesses. The drivers we know well, use often and always recommend are:
Made, who’s based near Kuta and drives all over the island: +62-859-3538-5758
Komang, who’s based in Canggu and in West Bali: +62-859-3121-3933
Ambara, who lives in Ubud: +62-812-368-4930

Don’t be fooled by maps

It’s important to know, when you’re planning your trip, that while distances on a map look short, in real-time it’ll take an age to cover them. Exactly how long depends on the time of day and whether roads are closed for ceremonies, but know that on an average day it’ll take 90 minutes to cover 40km from the airport to central Ubud. We’re based in West Bali, 90km from the airport – and on a good day it’ll take three or four hours to travel this distance by car. If you have only one week in Bali and don’t want to spend the majority of your time in traffic, I suggest you choose two destinations (three at the absolute most) and explore locally.

But… where should you go? Well that depends on what you’re hoping to see and do while you’re in Bali. In the next piece in this series – coming to your inbox on Sunday – I’ll delve into where to go for what you want… whether that be gorgeous views, colourful reefs, art galleries, surf spots, traditional villages, beautiful yoga shalas, wildlife or hip cafes. And a few other surprises, too.

See you Sunday!

Narina x

My other newsletters about Bali include:

Places to go – from secret escapes to celebrated Insta spots
Where to find peace in Ubud, when you’re overwhelmed by the crowds
The intriguing mathematical labyrinth of Bali’s calendars
Notes from Bali, and how it became “home”
Recipes from Dewi, my friend and most fabulous chef
The secret side of Bali – 5 off-the-radar places

You’re wanting to read other travel-related stories?

Please head to the NE Where homepage – or, scroll through the archive, here.