A note from the road – in Morocco

Chilly nights and sweet mint tea, in the High Atlas mountains

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The village of Aroumd, at the top of the Imlil Valley. That’s Jebel Toubkal (4167m), the highest peak in North Africa, in the distance.

Dear NE-One

I’ve been in Morocco’s High Atlas mountains for 10 days now – days with icy beginnings and endings, and punctuated by glasses of sweet mint tea drunk with a backdrop of snowy mountain vistas. I’ve done some high-altitude walks, learned how to make bread, bathed in a traditional hammam, turned a vase on a pottery wheel and have met so many people who’ve taken exquisite care of us as they share proudly various aspects of their Amazigh (Berber) culture.

We’ve been on the move every day – exploring, listening, learning – and I’ve worked on my computer until my fingers are too cold to continue. That hasn’t been too late: I’ve been in bed by 9 most evenings, and have stayed tucked deep beneath three thick blankets (sometimes four) until 8am, which is an hour after the first prayer call but still half an hour before sunrise. My body has slowed into a winter rhythm, and craves the gentle midday sun.

I’ve been sharing photos and videos of these High Atlas days on the NE Where On The Road WhatsApp group (which is accessible to paying subscribers), and will put together a piece on this trip in February, once all of the research and travel is behind me. For now, though, I’ve lifted the paywall on two pieces I wrote about Madagascar’s Central Highlands, a region Mark and I explored back in 2023 and that has come to mind a few times as we’ve explored the High Atlas… you can click here to see one photo each day, from one of the weeks we travelled the highlands, and click here to read about the Zafimaniry, Madagascar’s forest people, now without trees.

I hope you’re keeping warm, if you’re in the northern hemisphere – and if you’re enjoying a southern hemisphere summer, please soak up some rays for me.

With love